Unpacked: Budapest

I have a feeling that after the first post, writing about my travels is only going to get easier. And honestly? It’s about time I give some well-deserved love to the city that basically lit the spark for all of this — Budapest. Fair warning: this one’s probably going to be longer than my Malta piece. But that’s only because this time, I’m coming at you with double the stories, double the impressions… and probably double the coffee breaks while writing it.

Let’s rewind a bit. 

The year is 2022 (not ancient history, but hey — I’m setting the mood). It’s peak summer, the air smells like sunscreen and questionable airport sandwiches, and I’m about to meet Budapest for the very first time. My only mission: a c-o-n-c-e-r-t. And not just any gig, but one from an artist I’d sell my left shoe to see live. 

And there I was — just a carry-on in hand and zero expectations — and Budapest, that shameless seductress, was standing there with open arms.

Fast-forward to me checking into this gorgeous hostel in the Jewish Quarter. And hold up — when I say “hostel,” I don’t mean that nightmare setup with 15 bunk beds, 30 strangers, one sad shared bathroom, and the scent of instant noodles in the air. I mean ho(s)tel — capital H.  As in: a big building, polite staff and a room with its own bathroom.

The location? P-e-r-f-e-c-t. Literally steps away from the buzzing nightlife and comfortably close to the airport bus stop.

St. Stephen’s Basilica is one of the two tallest buildings in Budapest (along with the Parliament), standing exactly 94 meters high.

If a hostel isn’t really your thing, I’ve got an even better option — and it’s in the same neighborhood (you’d think I’m getting a commission, but sadly… no). I didn’t exactly find this place by some magical twist of fate — but I did find it on a platform I normally avoid like the plague: Airbnb. Why? Oh, just a little travel trauma I’ll spill in another post. (Spoiler alert: it involves us almost being homeless in Barcelona). So there I am, breaking my own rule, scrolling Airbnb… and boom — jackpot. A nearly new apartment with sky-high ceilings and that effortlessly bohemian interior, tucked inside a building that literally shares a courtyard with the musical theatre. (Yeah, I know. Cool.)

But let’s roll the clock back to the summer of 2022 just for a second.

Picture this: We hop on the 100E from the airport straight into downtown Budapest, and before I even unpack, I’m getting déjà vu. And now, after two trips here, I can confidently say — Budapest is everything Sofia could’ve been if life had gone a little differently. I know, I know — sounds dramatic and borderline absurd. But the similarities between Maria Luiza Boulevard’s area and the city’s old Jewish Quarter? Honestly… kind of spooky.

First things first — coffee and food Vol 1 & Vol 2.

I might not remember the exact streets we first wandered down, but boy oh boy do I remember the food and coffee. Like any self-respecting hipster traveler, my first order of business was paying my respects to brunch at Cirkusz Café Budapest and devouring Lebanese heaven at Dobrumba.

Both spots are just a short stroll from each other, right in the Jewish Quarter. And Dobrumba? So good I went back twice. The second time — for dinner. The service? Chef’s kiss. (Massive shout-out to the girl who basically moved mountains to get us a table for two in under 15 minutes.)

Now, the Jewish Quarter itself — non-negotiable. It’s the kind of place where you “accidentally” spend an entire afternoon because every side street is cute, every wall has a piece of art, and every café is silently whispering, “You know you want to come in.” Bonus if you hit a market day. And no, I’m not talking Sofia’s Women’s Market chaos — more like Plovdiv’s Kapana Fest vibes: colorful stalls, handmade gems, and that kind of atmosphere that makes you want to quit your job and sell crocheted tote bags for a living.

This year, purely by accident, I crashed a market at Szimpla Kert — you know, that bar that looks like someone threw an art show and a junkyard party at the same time. At night, it’s just as wild — cocktails strong enough to make you dance and beer cold enough to save your dignity. Don’t get me wrong — I’m not the bar-hopping, dance-on-the-table kind of person, but if you’re into cocktails, KAA Mixology is a must-visit. Their menu is basically tradition crashing into innovation, with classic drinks getting a fancy makeover that’ll make your taste buds do a happy dance.

Alright, drumroll, please... long live the goulash!

 First time around, I totally missed out on trying this iconic Hungarian stew, and honestly, clueless me pictured it as some weird cabbage soup (don’t ask, no idea why). But this time, we hit up a spot so good even Michelin chefs would wanna take notes - Stika Gastropub. That beef goulash? Pure magic. As for the traditional lángos — never got around to trying it. But let’s be real, it’s basically a bigger Bulgarian mekitsa with toppings, so how surprising can it be?

And while we’re still on the food topic—if you’re a Harry Potter fan, Budapest has not one, but two cafés dedicated to Hogwarts. The food? About as average as a Happy meal, but the vibe? Definitely worth checking out. Just… don’t get your hopes up too high.

Okay, okay… enough with the food tour. Let’s do some sightseeing, shall we? 

So, here’s the deal — Budapest is basically two cities in one: Buda and Pest. Buda’s the fancy old lady with her castle and Fisherman’s Bastion, all classy and historical. Pest? Oh, Pest’s the cool teenager throwing all the parties — where the fun actually happens. Don’t get me wrong, Buda’s definitely worth a visit, but more like a quick afternoon stroll. Pro tip: if you hate hills (who doesn’t?), take the funicular up to Buda Castle. The ride’s almost vertical — perfect for those “wow, that view!” moments overlooking the Parliament, and once you’re up there, you can chill and explore without breaking a sweat.

And speaking of Parliament...

Holy moly, that building is one of the prettiest things I’ve ever laid eyes on. The details? Insane. And guess what? Freddie Mercury thought so too. Back in the late ’80s when Queen was touring Eastern Europe, Freddie actually tried to buy the Parliament building. Yeah, you read that right. he Hungarians weren’t exactly thrilled by that, so to make up for it, Freddie sang a Hungarian folk song called “Tavaszi Szél Vizet Áraszt.” For real. There’s video proof. Freddie, you legend.

Oh, and while you’re in the neighborhood—do yourself a favor and take a stroll along the Danube. The views? Absolutely killer. On your way to the Széchenyi Chain Bridge, you’ll stumble upon a pretty heartbreaking monument—the Shoes on the Danube Bank. It’s a sobering reminder from WWII, so bring tissues. Now, speaking of monuments with a bit of drama—right smack in the middle of Budapest, there’s one that’s supposed to honor the Jews who died during the war, but it’s actually a sneaky piece of propaganda. Turns out Hungary was Hitler’s not-so-secret buddy back then. When the bigwigs realized Germany was losing, they tried to rewrite history and make Hungary look like the poor victim instead of the sidekick. Sneaky, huh? Keep that little fact in your back pocket when you visit. If you want to dive into Hungary’s darker past (and I mean really dive), the House of Terror Museum is a must-see. It’s interactive, intense, and trust me—it’ll stick with you for life.

Back to the Danube and 2022—imagine our luck landing in Budapest during Hungary’s National Day. You’d think, “Big deal, fixed date, no surprises.” But nope! In 2022, thanks to a weather forecast fail so bad it cost two meteorologists their jobs, the celebrations got postponed for a whole week. Oops. So there we were at the end of August, chilling by the river with tens of thousands of people, watching Europe’s biggest fireworks show ever. Not too shabby for a rainy forecast, right?

And speaking of the Danube, during my second trip, I hopped on a night cruise (yes, me and a boat). The real reason? To see the Parliament building glowing all golden and magical at night. If boats make you nervous, here’s a pro tip: pick a tour with unlimited prosecco. Yes, unlimited. Getting off the boat was definitely the trickier (and funnier) part. But those views? Worth every wobble.

Oh, and a little Budapest secret: keep your eyes peeled for tiny bronze statues scattered all over the city. They’re like little urban Easter eggs. Snap some pics, get the stories behind them. There’s a mini statue of Count Dracula hiding in City Park (because why not?), and nearby, you’ll find a statue of “Anonymous,” the first Hungarian chronicler—who honestly looks like a Hungarian dementor. No joke.

Almost forgot… WARNING – the water in Budapest is terrible. And I mean the mineral water in supermarkets that’s so weak it couldn’t get you drunk if it tried. My advice? Stick to sparkling water or grab some Evian from Tesco (no commission here, just trying to save any poor soul who might end up with my problem).

Budapest isn’t about the wow factor. It doesn’t flaunt the grandeur of Rome or the elegance of Paris, but it’s a true gem in Central Europe that knows exactly how to seduce its visitors. It pulls you in gently with its unique spirit, making it impossible not to return. This city is all about the little joys — coffee served with a smile, peaceful evening walks along the Danube, and a colorful nightlife that never sleeps. And it’s exactly this unpretentious charm that makes Budapest unforgettable.